Sticky Buns

Today’s recipe is a guest post from Nathan.  He dug up this recipe after a long weekend of home improvement, when we really needed a treat – and these were just right. The only problem is, they’re all gone now!


Sticky buns, inverted out of the pan

I have lots of enjoyable memories from my childhood, and plenty of them have to do with food.  It should come as no surprise that when fall finally fell, bringing the cold-weather coats and falling leaves, I thought of a warm kitchen, full of wonderful smells and tastes.  High on the list is a delight that my grandmother made during cold, wintery visits.  Amongst many other wonderful qualities, my grandmother was an excellent cook, and the foods that I perhaps associate most with her are her sticky buns.  The whole house filled with a wonderful aroma while they were baking, but the smell was nothing compared to the taste.  Buttery, with a warm cinnamon spice and a sticky glaze that would have left sugary fingerprints all over the house were the fingers not licked completely clean twice over: there is no cold weather, or slushy wintry mix, or frozen ears, that were not completely ignored when sticky buns were offered.  The recipe is titled “Caramel Buns”, but I never heard them called anything other than Sticky Buns.  The only problem with making these myself is that they could never really live up to the childhood memories – but they certainly came close.

Yum! Sticky bun, ready to eat
Grandma’s Sticky Buns

¼ C butter, melted
1/3 C brown sugar
1 tsp light corn syrup
1/3 C pecans or walnuts
¾ C warm water
1 pkg dry yeast
2 ½ C Bisquick*
2 Tbs butter, softened
¼ C brown sugar
1 tsp cinnamon

Add 1/3 C brown sugar and the corn syrup to the melted butter.  Bring to a rolling boil, and then spread in an 8” layer (round) pan.  Add the nuts.

Dissolve the yeast in the water.  Add Bisquick, and beat hard.  Knead about 20 minutes.  Roll into a rectangle 16”x9”.  Spread with a mixture of the softened butter, ¼ C brown sugar and cinnamon.  Roll from the wide side and seal.  Cut into 16 slices.  Put into the pan, and cover with a damp cloth.  Let rise 1 hour.  Bake 20-25 minutes at 400 degrees.  Invert the pan on a rack and remove.  Let cool, then tear apart the individual rolls when you’re ready to eat them.  Best served warm.

*We didn’t have Bisquick, so I asked Wikipedia.  A mixture of 2 ½ C flour, 3 ¾ tsp baking powder, 1 ¼ tsp salt and 2 ½ Tbs canola oil worked out just fine.

Sticky buns in the pan

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Time to make cheese

I’m graduating.

Until now, I’ve only made soft cheeses. I’m about to graduate to making hard cheese. It’s a big step. Like venturing into any unfamiliar new cooking method, it’s  intimidating.

Supplies for making hard cheese: rennet, cheesecloth, wax, mold

Granted, most people have never made any kind of cheese from scratch, not even dead-easy ones like panir.  (Though, perhaps everyone should!) That puts me already a couple steps towards “crazy hippie”, especially since I’m a city-dweller, with no reasonable excuse for making cheese, like using up the milk from my cow. I have no cow, and no neighbors with cows. Local milk is actually kind of expensive. But I make cheese anyway, because… I like cheese. A lot.

I started a couple years ago, for reasons I can’t quite remember. Somewhere, I got the idea that it was possible to make cheese at home; then I bought a lovely book called “Home Cheese-Making” that assured me it was more than possible, it was quite achievable. This was around the time that Barbara Kingsolver wrote about cheese-making in her book “Animal, Vegetable, Mineral” (a very good read, if you haven’t read it), and set off a brief flurry of interest in it, but I got into making cheese before I read her book.  In fact, I felt a teensy bit cheated when I read it, because, hey, that was my idea.

Since then, I’ve made a number of cheeses, from mozzarella and (accidental) ricotta to fromage blanc, mascarpone, and cream cheese.  There are a lot of good things about making soft cheese.  It’s delicious, and versatile. It’s relatively fast – ready to eat in a day or less, rather than months. Most of the equipment you’ll need is already in your kitchen. There are only a few steps. If you follow instructions, use fresh milk, and keep your equipment clean, it’s hard to mess up.

Hard cheese is almost the opposite.  It requires special equipment. Every step in the process takes longer, and there are many more steps to follow. Once you’ve completed the steps that are similar to making soft cheese, you still need to cut the curds, press them for several days, let the cheese dry, and then age it for several months before you can eat it. These are all reasons I’m a tad nervous about making hard cheese: so much more investment, and so much more room for disaster to strike.

But the rewards should be in proportion to the risks, and I’m much more excited than nervous. My new supplies from New England Cheesemaking came in the mail this week, including good cheesecloth, a mold (for draining and pressing the curds), drying mats, cheese wax (how cool is it that I can make cheeses with wax on the outside?) and of course cultures.  Cultures are the number one supply you need to make most cheeses.  For many cheese recipes, you can make do without much special equipment, but cultures and rennet are what actually turn the milk into cheese, and they’re not readily available – you pretty much have to mail order them.

Side note: If you know someone who loves cheese, and is geeky enough to want to make it, New England Cheesemaking sells some beginner kits that let you get started without much fuss and research, and would make great gifts.

This time, I ordered two hard cheese cultures – one that likes high heat, and one that prefers more moderate temperatures.  Between these two, I can make cheeses like cheddar, gouda, provolone, parmesan, colby, jack, haloumi, and others. I’ll probably start with a (comparatively) simple cheddar, to get the hang of the process, before I venture into the trickier cheeses, and the ones with longer aging time.

I also got cultures to make sour cream, mascarpone, and buttermilk. I’ve been using a lot of buttermilk lately, as if I’d just discovered it for the first time, so I’m looking forward to being able to make it when I need it.  I’ve already tried out the mascarpone culture this weekend, using a method that involves tartaric acid instead of traditional culture, and it is seriously, seriously good: sweet and creamy, good enough to eat with a spoon.

So, that will have to get me by until I can make my first batch of cheddar!

Posted in cheese | Tagged | 1 Comment

Saturday fun

Happy weekend! To celebrate, enjoy this comic from The Oatmeal. Is this why you don’t cook at home?

The blogger in me wants to wax eloquent on the lessons of this comic, but really, that would be missing the point.  Key takeaway is: if that’s the cookbook you’re working with, and it’s keeping you from cooking, get a new cookbook.  Also: never buy something called “mango lard juice”, even if your crazy cookbook asks for it. Just say no.

Posted in food in culture | 2 Comments

Homemade peanut butter cups

The great thing about making peanut butter cups from scratch is that you can use any kind of chocolate you like, and any kind of nut butter, too.  It’s fairly easy to make lots of really delicious peanut butter cups.  We’re talking light-years better than Reese’s. The bad thing is, they’re really, really good.

peanut butter cups

Think about Reese’s cups.  Now think about them with dark chocolate. Really good dark chocolate. And real, creamy peanut butter.

Now imagine that you could make them with things you probably have in your cabinets right now.

Peanuts and chocolate - all you need for peanut butter cups

See?  Dangerous.

Fortunately for those of us who prefer not to overdose on sugar, they can be a pain to make in large quantities, mostly because they require working slowly.  But they’re still well worth the effort, and if you’re more concerned with taste than appearance, you can skimp on some of the detail without ill effects. With Halloween just around the corner, there’s really no reason not to make them right now.

For this batch, I decided to make my own peanut butter.  It was entirely unnecessary, but it was something I’d been meaning to try, so this seemed like the ideal opportunity.  In retrospect, I could have done better with the consistency if I’d used store-bought, but it was tasty nevertheless.  To make peanut butter: first, put some peanuts in the food processor.  Then, grind them up.  And grind them more. Maybe scrape down the sides, if it’s piling up. Then grind them some more.  Then, you’ll have peanut butter.  Stop while it’s still chunky, or keep going until it’s smooth – it’s up to you.  If it’s going slowly, you can do what I did, and add a bit of vegetable oil to speed things up.  That’s where I went wrong, in this case.  The oil made it smooth and spreadable… perfect for sandwiches, but too soft to hold its shape while I covered it in chocolate. If you have a choice of nut butters when you’re making these, pick one that’s on the firm side.

peanut butter

These are easy to make in cupcake wrappers, either full-size or mini ones.  I used mini this time, but the large ones are easier to fill.  They are also larger when you eat them (and you still can’t eat just one).  Consider yourself warned.

To start, melt your favorite kind of chocolate in a bowl in the microwave.  Go slowly – heat until it’s mostly melted, and stir until the last bits melt away.  That will help keep it at the proper temperature.

Formally, you’d want to temper the chocolate, which involves keeping it at a specific temperature as you work. Tempering is a bit annoying, I find, and the main benefit is that it gives the chocolate a nice, shiny, non-cloudy color when it cools. Otherwise, you’ll get a “bloom”: white fats rising to the surface.  It’s harmless, and if it discourages other people from eating your candy, that means more for you. But if you’re making these for a gift, or a party like I was, you should temper the chocolate.  If you’d rather not bother with thermometers, my rule of thumb is that if the chocolate is almost too thick to pour or drip off a spoon, it’s properly tempered.

Set out your wrappers on a plate or tray.  One at a time, drip chocolate into each wrapper and spread to form a layer across the bottom.  Let them cool – either on the counter for 10 minutes, or briefly in the fridge, until the chocolate is solid.

Chocolate bases in wrappers

Using a small spoon (for my little wrappers, I used a half-teaspoon), scoop the peanut butter on top of the chocolate.  Don’t let it touch the edges of the wrapper.  This is where the big wrappers are easier to work with.  You will almost certainly use less peanut butter than you’d expect.

Filling and coating the peanut butter cups

Finally, cover the peanut butter in more melted chocolate.  You may need to warm up your chocolate, just a little.  Tilt the wrappers so the chocolate makes its way all around the sides, and traps the peanut butter.  Then, just let them sit until the chocolate cools and turns solid.  (While you wait, you can “clean”  the chocolate-melting bowl: the best part of any candy-making project!)

I used half a pound of chocolate and perhaps a quarter pound of peanut butter to make 30 small cups.  You can use plain peanut butter, or mix in a spoonful of powdered sugar to make it just a bit sweet.  They will be gobbled up, until your friends start begging you to hide them.

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Unprocessed for October

October is unprocessed month.  A group of bloggers, headed up by Andrew Wilder at Eating Rules, are eating only unprocessed foods for the month of October.  I’m late to the party… well, really, I’m not attending this party, but I wanted to share it because I think it’s a very cool idea.  I particularly like his definition of “unprocessed”:

Unprocessed food is any food that could be made by a person with reasonable skill in a home kitchen with readily available, whole-food ingredients.

You don’t necessarily have to make them yourself, at home – but you should only eat things that you could theoretically have made.  Beer is okay: plenty of people brew beer at home, even if you don’t.  Same with cheese, some varieties of which you can make at home without any special equipment.  But chocolate is only okay if it doesn’t have additives, and cookies could be okay, if you used whole grain flour (which could be milled at home) and a natural sweetener (unlike sugar, which requires too much processing).  Anything with corn syrup is right out.

Isn’t that cool?  The rules are somewhat arbitrary (and certainly open to bending), but the whole project is an exercise in consciousness, a new awareness about what goes into the foods we eat, even things we cook ourselves. There’s an incredible amount of processed foods, chemicals and preservatives in almost everything you buy at the store.  If you’re buying something with an ingredient list, odds are that list contains at least one processed ingredient, something that could only be made in a lab or a factory. Reading labels is a scary, dangerous business!

While I won’t be going unprocessed for the whole month, I’d love to participate in a small way, by making some things from scratch that I wouldn’t normally.  Perhaps I’ll make cheese, which I haven’t done in a long time.  I will almost certainly make homemade peanut butter cups for Halloween, and will share the recipe.  I’ve never made peanut butter by hand, but this would be a good excuse to try.  And I’d love to experiment with different sweeteners – at the link above, there’s a great discussion of how sugar, agave, honey, and other sweeteners are processed.

Is there something you’ve always wanted to try making from scratch?  Consider this a good excuse to try it.

Or, is there something you’d like to see me make from scratch, and tell you about?

Posted in food politics, homemade | 1 Comment

On Food Processors and Convenience

Mark Bittman has been romanticizing his food processor – he says it’s one of the most versatile tools in his kitchen, and from the list of things he’s made with it… well, I’m impressed.

However, his food processor is not mine, and mine couldn’t do half of these things. (I’m not sure it could do any of them well.) Our blender/processor is one of the kitchen appliances we bought when we first moved to DC, and were so overwhelmed by bills, up-front rent payments, and new furniture purchases that we bought the cheapest one we could find… and it acts like it.  Pesto is a challenge for this thing.  And it’ll puree vegetables for you, as long as you don’t mind lumps.

So, let’s just say that Bittman has me dreaming of a new food processor, and all the wonderful things my dream-self would make once I get it.

There aren’t that many gadgets in the kitchen that single-handedly encourage me to cook more. Certainly nothing like the inspiration that Bittman is describing.  The only thing that comes close is my stick blender, and possibly my microplane.  Do you own any kitchen tools that actually make you spend more time in the kitchen?

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Lazy camping meals, and tasty Seattle

I’m back from the mountain.  (I’ve been back over a week, actually, but it’s taken me this long to sort through the pictures.) We spent four stunning days at Mount Rainier, camping and hiking, followed by two much wetter, but still fun, days in Seattle.  At Rainier, we saw the mountain up close and personal.  We hiked about 7,000 feet, where the air so thin and smogless that you can feel it clean out your lungs. We walked up close to glaciers, close enough to feel the icy breeze come off them. And there’s no question that while Rainier wins for mind-blowing scenery, great hiking, and crisp cool air, Seattle wins for tasty food.

Glacier

You may remember that I asked for ideas of camping meals, a couple weeks ago.  I had some strict conditions: we were flying to our destination and bringing our camping gear, so it had to be easy to prepare with the simplest cooking implements, and composed entirely of things we could buy piecemeal at the grocery store upon our arrival.  Most of the advice I got was the same as we were thinking: that sounds hard. We made some allowances for things we couldn’t live without (we bought a little bottle of cooking oil and tossed half of it), and we had some mishaps, but overall I think we did pretty well.  We certainly felt well-fed.  The key was keeping it very, very simple.

The other key is this: when you’ve spent the day camping, anything will taste like the best meal you’ve ever had.

The biggest food-related “mishap” was the mouse that broke into our car the first night and chewed holes in several of our bags of food. The little varmint didn’t ruin everything, and left some things surprisingly untouched, but that mouse cost us at least a meal out of our plans.

This is not the mouse, but it is one of his shameless, fearless cousins who would happily have done the same:

Begging chipmunk

Here’s what we planned, and what we ended up with.

Breakfast:

  • Pancakes (from a just-add-water mix) with dried blueberries
  • Scrambled eggs, with pan-fried potatoes and veggies sausage
  • Oatmeal with dried blueberries (the oats were an early victim of the mouse – fortunately, we had enough eggs and potatoes for an extra meal)

Dinner:

  • Baked beans (from a can) and veggie hot dogs
  • Annie’s Mac & Cheese with veggie hot dogs
  • “Stew” consisting of a can of tomatoes, a can of beans, some chopped potatoes, and cheese.  Cornbread on the side. (The cornbread mix was another mouse victim – and just as well, because it would have been far too much food.)

Our campground

All this we cooked on a rented, two-burner Coleman stove with an inexpensive two-person mess kit and a Leatherman.  We used no spices, no odds and ends. It was not the best cooking experience of my life, though it made me feel very resourceful.  The macaroni and cheese very nearly overflowed its pot, and was the lumpiest I’ve ever made. We might replace the mess kit with something sturdier and more practical, before our next camping trip.  But everything came out utterly delicious, because that’s how things work when you’re camping.

But the best part about camping is, you get to watch this while you make breakfast:

View from Camp

And when you’re done, you can go see things like these:

Wildflowers before Rainier

Narada Falls

Nisqually Glacier

Glacial lake

The fun foodie part of the trip was in Seattle.  It rained, but we consoled ourselves with good food. We spent less time there than I would have liked, and I was singularly unprepared to know where to eat. Usually when I travel, I’ve got a handful of restaurants in mind, but here, we just wandered, and stumbled upon some good stuff.

I’d never been to Seattle before, and the one foodie destination on my list was Pike Place Market.  This was like no other market that I’ve been to: part European city market, part Neverwhere-style Floating Market. The descriptions I read didn’t do it justice. It was a maze, spread across several buildings and many floors, with windy corridors and usually no way to get from here to there.  We got very turned around. But most of the food stands, fortunately, spread along one long hallway, and restaurants lined the street just outside, so once we found that, we were fine.

The only thing that prevented me from filling up my suitcase with treasure from Pike Place Market was the knowledge that it was already basically full. And a lot of the best things wouldn’t travel well, anyhow.  But I couldn’t help but bring home a few things.

One stand, Papardelle’s, sold handmade pasta in a rainbow of flavors, most of which you wouldn’t find anywhere else.  If I lived in Seattle, I would stop there in the afternoon to pick up just the right one to go with dinner that night. Picking one or two just to have?  That was hard. I picked some “orzo supreme”, a three-flavored orzo that included porcini, saffron, and roasted pepper.

Three-flavored orzo

I also got a bag of chocolate raspberry gemelli.  That’s right, chocolate-raspberry flavored pasta.  How could I not?  Nathan asked me what I plan to do with it, and I admit that I don’t know.  Something excellent.  (Suggestions are welcome!)

Chocolate and raspberry pasta

We also sampled some incredible vinegars, like an aged blackberry balsalmic. But I’d have been scared to take those on the plane.

Down the hall, tucked in a corner behind a crowd of tourists (who were watching some guys throw fish around, for reasons that escape me), was my favorite store: Market Spice.  Imagine a candy store for grown-ups who like to cook. That’s what it’s like, down to the rows of bulk storage containers on the walls, and the man behind the counter who would fetch your candy… errr, your spices for you. One wall was entirely lined with spices, including quite a few rarities, and many of their own blends. A second wall was all coffee and tea. The shelves held boxed tea, containers, teapots, and various other wonderful things. I restrained myself here, and only got a handful of things: a bag of their signature cinnamon-orange tea (both sweet and spicy, it may be my new favorite incarnation of this flavor of tea), some huckleberry tea, a small bag of dried orange zest, and another small bag of local applewood smoked salt, which smells just like a campfire. All of these seemed unique enough to be worth carting home, and I’m already regretting that I didn’t splurge more, because there’s just nothing comparable here in DC.

Goodies from Market Spice - tea, and spices

We had lunch nearby at Beecher’s Handmade Cheese, where you could perch on a stool (if you were lucky enough to get one at the small counter) and watch them make cheese in tubs the size of three bathtubs, while eating their self-proclaimed “world’s best” macaroni and cheese. I’ve always claimed that I make the best mac and cheese in the world (with the exception of the lumpy boxed stuff from our camping trip), but theirs was so good that I won’t begrudge them the title.

Window on cheese, at Beecher's

Beecher's Mac and Cheese

Of course, all these stores do online sales. There’s no reason I couldn’t order anything I like, with no worries about fitting it in a suitcase.  But… isn’t that cheating?

Posted in easy meals, local | 2 Comments

Easy vegetarian bolognese-style sauce

Everyone is writing about homemade tomato sauce this time of year.  I wrote about it this time last year, too.  I won’t bore you with the same story again, though.  I made tomato sauce on a whim the other day, mostly to try out two new ideas that were kicking around in my brain, things I had read that I wanted to try out.

Vegetarian bolognese

The more revolutionary idea was a big shortcut in the process.  I wish I could remember where I read this one. Usually, when you make tomato sauce, it’s a lot of work. Before you even start you have to prep the tomatoes in the way Deb at Smitten Kitchen describes, by blanching them, peeling them, squeezing out the seeds, and chopping them.  It means working over a big pot of boiling water before you even start cooking the tomatoes. It requires a big assembly line set up in your kitchen, and if you’re making a big batch, it takes some time.

Here’s how you make it easier: don’t do any of that.  Instead, just puree them.  Rinse the tomatoes off, cut out the cores and any bad spots, and stick them in the food processor. A few pulses, and you’ll never know the skin and seeds were there (but you’ll still get all the added nutrition). That’s it. Then you make sauce.

The problem with this approach is that you retain a lot of extra liquid, much more than if you squeezed out the seeds and juice. That’s why the traditional process is, well, traditional.  But there are solutions.  You can aim for a thinner sauce.  You can cook it a couple extra hours.

Or, you can add mushrooms, like I did.  Because the second idea I found was making a vegetarian version of bolognese sauce (usually made with lots of meat).  I saw suggestions for making it with lentils, or with mushrooms.  I picked mushrooms for this because, frankly, I like them better, and because mushrooms are amazing at absorbing liquid. And what did we need in this sauce? Less liquid.  So I ground up a box of mushrooms, and tossed in some finely-chopped dried porcinis, and it worked just right. Even better, all the extra mushrooms made the sauce taste rich and “meaty” – as meaty as you can get without beef.

You can scale this recipe up, or even down, as you see fit.  As with most of my “recipes”, you can adjust most ingredients to taste. The amounts below made enough sauce for about 3 meals for the two of us, and it keeps well.

Easy Vegetarian Bolognese Sauce

3-4 large, fresh ripe tomatoes – they don’t have to be in perfect condition, but should be good quality
1 onion
1-2 cloves garlic
1 tbsp butter
One 10-oz box of mushrooms (I used baby bellas)
Oregano & basil
Salt & pepper

Melt the butter in a large saucepan or pot (large enough to hold everything). Chop the onion, and saute until lightly browned.  If you feel ambitious, cook until it’s carmelized. When the onion is almost done, add the garlic and cook a few more minutes.

While the onion cooks, finely chop the mushrooms, to about the consistency of ground beef.  When the onions are done, add the mushrooms and saute for a few minutes.

Rinse the tomatoes. Cut out the cores and any bad spots.  Process them in batches in a food processor (if yours is like mine, it may help to cut the tomatoes in quarters first). When they are pureed, add them to the pot.  Add herbs, and bring to a simmer.

Simmer the sauce over low heat until it’s reached the desired consistency. This could take 1-3 hours, or possibly more.  It needs little attention, but stir it every 15 minutes to keep a skin from forming on the top.

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Favorite camping foods?

CampfireIn less than a week, Nathan and I are off on vacation.  We’re spending half the time camping at the beautiful Mount Rainier National Park, and since we’re flying, we’re traveling light and buying virtually all our food when we get there.

We’re planning menus and making a shopping list now, so we don’t forget anything critical when we arrive. And it’s been a while since I’ve been on a traditional camping trip.  So, help me out: what are your favorite easy camping meals?

When we get back, I promise to post some recipes!

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Introducing the Recipe Builder

I’ve got something I’m excited to share with you. I’ve been working on it for a while, and finally figured out how to fit it in here.

If you’ve been reading this blog for long, or if you’ve ever cooked with me, you know I believe fiercely in messing with recipes.  I’m more likely to modify a recipe than to follow it.

When I do follow a recipe to the letter, there are two main reasons, which I think apply to most people: either it’s a very special recipe (from my Grandma, for example), or else I don’t understand it well enough to mess with it.  Every cook has a different threshold for “understanding something well enough to mess with it”.

Some cooks are bolder than others.  I’m pretty bold, and sometimes I pay for it.  But I believe that everyone can benefit from learning to modify recipes. Not only does it save your butt when you’ve run out of something, and need to make a substitution, but it lets you adjust recipes to your liking – you will like the results better.

And so, I present: the Recipe Builder: a little toy to help you learn how to mess with recipes.  This one is a recipe for pasta with vegetables.  Nothing complicated, more a proof of concept than anything else, but I hope to do a whole series of these, each one focusing on a recipe that’s friendly to modify in a variety of ways.  I’m thinking hummus… lasagna… soup… quesadillas.  Those sorts of recipes, with the goal of showing how recipes in general can be adjusted to taste, with little risk of things going wrong.

Please go play around with it.  I’d love to know what you think.  Do you find it useful?  Do you know someone who would?  (Or do you think it’s silly?) Do you wish it would do [fill in the blank]? Got ideas for a recipe that would work well in this form? Leave a comment and let me know!

As some of you know, my day job involves building websites. I had a lot of fun creating this, and not just because I didn’t have to test it in IE6, that most reviled of web browsers.  For the geeks in the audience, I got to use some cool jQuery that I normally don’t get to dirty my hands with, not to mention all the CSS3 features that don’t work in older browsers. So, it was worth it for that alone.  I learned some things about WordPress that I never knew (for example, that it will chew up my HTML if I’m not careful, and that it hates Javascript). But I also got to combine web development with cooking, and in my mind, that’s a big win!

Posted in announcement, experiment | 3 Comments